While the cà phê sữa đá is an undisputed cornerstone of Vietnamese life and part of everyone's introduction to Vietnam, the cheaper cà phê nóngs are where the richer experiences are to be had. A cà phê nóng, essentially 'hot coffee', has a consistency most closely resembling tar and a spicy kind of warmth most closely reminiscent of Christmas. Or being hugged at Christmas. In a warm jumper. Whilst standing in front of a fire. And if none of this sounds appealing in 34°c heat then you'd be forgiven for thinking so. However, the seductive nature of this pure-spiced-rocket-fuel-infused-blackstuff as it rolls along the side of the glass is powerful. It's lazy and slothful and obstinate and, importantly, delicious. The coffee teases as it drips from its metallic home into the glass, as reluctant to move as you are impatient to drink. But the waiting is part of the fun. Once you manage to coax it out of its home the results are both pleasurable and confusing. One is imbued with an incredible energy and a need to do something and at the same time confounded by the heat and realisation that there is really nothing to do. The processs is over in a matter of minutes and, like most things in Saigon, creates feelings of being both relaxation and hypertension simultaneously.